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John Stolen

As the only Mexican designer being featured at New York Fashion Week Men’s, Ricardo Seco’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection focuses on contemporary Mexico while drawing inspiration from the country’s bold and unique culture and history. Stark, dramatic black provides a foundation upon which Seco builds a vibrant line that plays with color, texture, luxury, and glamour. In this, his 9th collection, (titled “TIME”), Ricardo Seco combines the richness of Mexican culture with its new contemporary sophistication.

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In keeping with his previous collections, Greg Lauren brings us a full presentation of old world antics (think newsboys and boxing matches) with a post-apocalyptic twist. Consistent in his distressed detailing Lauren’s FW2016 Men’s collection provides a unique approach to sportswear. Keeping to hues of olive, gray, brown, and black, the collection is anything but drab. Lauren is an artist, and his work is presented with such imagination. Collections always “tell a story”, but often the story is left to the viewer’s imagination, sometimes with rough guidelines that indicate the feeling or direction the designer intends the collection to take – Lauren presents the story and the collection as one.

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The kingpin of apres surf wear strikes again – Thaddeus O’Neil, known for his relaxed, beach-bum chic collections, takes us on a journey to an isolated, tropical island and leaves us shipwrecked with his lost boys, his Children of the Night. Bloody noses, lips, and eyes don’t stop these boys from strutting down the runway with their passive and stoic bravado. Pineapple prints and loose knits belie the look in their eyes.

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Kenneth Ning’s Summer/Spring 2016 collection is a refreshing exploratory leap from seasons past. The color palette has evolved to evoke bright spices. Complex prints reminiscent of sand mandalas bounce throughout the line. Vibrant mustard yellow and crisp jade run along side deep navy. Floral jacquards punctuate a horizontal take on the pinstripe suit. Sheer bandanas emblazoned with floral prints serve to accessorize the outfits, sometimes going so far as to shield the entire face from view.

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Subtlety has always been the name of the game with Carlos Campos. His Spring/Summer 2016 collection is inspired by the “Forastero” – the stranger, the outsider – the man alone who stands out but is wholly a mystery to all. Campos conveys this theme with a solid line of muted, hunter green garments, peppered with palm prints, pops of camel, and one solitary red, camo, sleeveless suit. The structuring remains relaxed, as we are accustomed, but the double-breasted, belted blazers,  give the line a more rigid, upright, and utilitarian look.

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David Hart takes us back to our formative years, incorporating primarily primary colors, with a touch of green. Inspired by the Bauhaus movement, Hart‘s SS16 collection calls out the primary building blocks, of fashion and prints. Staying with his strong tailoring techniques he showcases structured linen suits with flat front trousers, pleated shorts, and geometric prints that allude to more tactile textures of the Bauhaus-era manufacturers. A front flap added to select pairs of shorts add the architectural element that imbues the inter-war era movement.

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Moving beyond his debut collection which stayed within a safe range of navy, grey, and black, Carlos Garciavelez’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection plays with the spectrum of light, drawing inspiration from David Flavin’s 1996 fluorescent installation. Vertical gradients of neon blue into neon green printed on tees, horizontal gradients punctuating the hem of sweaters of lightweight bonded fabrics, and neon treads across coats and button-ups all convey the temporal quality of light that Carlos experiments with. “The challenge,” he says, is “to capture a finite quality of an incandescent source and how that relates to the human body”.

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General Idea Autumn/Winter 2015 Collection

by John Stolen

Highwaters, pinstripes, and pleats – oh my! Proceed with caution, gentlemen, the 90s are back in full swing and the Autumn/Winter 2015 men’s collection for General Idea is not for the faint of heart – but rather for the fashion forward. With footwear provided by Dr. Marten, this collection makes a very clear statement. We’re not super keen on pleated pants in general, or high water trousers, but the dark, woolen fabrics and the simple, streamlined knit sweaters are definitely something we can get behind. A favorite? The color-blocked, full-length, sleeveless, wool coat – out of a relatively jarring collection, this piece is truly to die for.

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