NYFW | Boudoir D’huitres Fall 2010 Sneak Peek + Exclusive Interview

Boudoir D’huitres designer Mimi Plange was born in Ghana and moved to Southern California at a young age where she got a degree in architecture from the University of California. Upon graduation, Plange came to New York, where she spent many years as a consultant in the fashion industry, including stints with Patricia Fields and Rachel Roy before going on to launch her own venture.

Boudoir D’huitres is a well rounded collection of luxe dresses and separates that combines extravagant statement pieces (for example, This current season’s neon ostrich feather embellished vests and strapless leather shift dresses with architectural silhouettes) mixed with more relaxed, classic styles. The retail price ranges between $400- $3000.

JSD: What was the inspiration for your Fall 2010 collection?
Mimi Plange: This Autumn/Fall collection I was drawn to Mozart’s, “The Magic Flute” and have named my theme “Queen of the Night” after the plays subtitle. I love the opera’s contrast of darkness and light through deception and humor. When reading the play, it was easy to let my mind drift and imagine my own Victorian spin of the temples and fairy tale land set in Egypt. I imagined a Queen dressed in red and black reigning over her life in 2012. She was in the future, but not so distant that we couldn’t see her.

Red was a focal color for me, because of all of the feelings, thoughts, and emotions that it evokes. It is a color of passion, royalty, lust, and power and I wanted to transcend those “things” through my clothes. I used beautiful embroideries of gardens, roses and scrolls as well as rose bead appliques. I wanted to create wearable art that was modern and easy to wear. I was inspired by modern geometric shapes and classic draping.

I represented the symbols in the play by allowing the presence of threes to bring my work together-3 embroideries, 3 panels, 3 fabrications, and triangles. The angular triangles were the subtle reference to the pyramids of Egypt, where the play was set. I brought in black as a representation of darkness and cream to represent the light. Cream was the least color used showing that out of darkness will always come light.

JSD: Will we see any new fabrics? Do you tend to choose heavier fabrics and darker colors for the F/W collections? If so, what are you working with for this season?
Mimi: I definitely choose much heavier fabrics in the F/W collections as opposed to S/S. I enjoy moving in and out of fabrics from light to heavy as the seasons change. It keeps you excited about the “new-ness” of the next season. This particular season, I have incorporated many new fabrics for the collection that I have not used before. Most are sustainable or organic. I am using organic merino wool, organic hemp silk, as well as an organic cotton spandex blend. This is also the first time I have used real snakeskin within my collection. I’m excited about the new materials and have also focused on a very small color pallete of black, red, and cream. But with the reds, there are many shades, deep, strong, dark, and bold that would look best in fall against the muted sky and changing trees without hiding you. My customer doesn’t want to blend in, and doesn’t want to try not to. She is a compliment to her environment, and the clothes must always reflect that.

JSD: Are there any modifications in production or manufacturing with this collection?
Mimi: Well, due to the economy, many small factories here in the US, where we manufacture all of our clothing have been shut down, so the options as a small designer as to where to produce is becoming more limited as we strive to keep our business in the United States. I didn’t have to modify anything in my production or manufacturing per se, but i did add some new organic fibers and materials to my collection. Every season as I grow larger and larger, I would like to strive to continue to do what I can to contribute to a more sustainable practice of producing and making clothes.

JSD: What’s next for the label?
Mimi: Boudoir D’huitres is a well rounded collection of luxe dresses and separates
that combines extravagant statement pieces.

JSD: Will we see the same style this coming season?
Mimi: Definitely yes, but with an even more intense storytelling of what that Boudoir D’huitres style truly is. We would like to keep our look consistent. We are building a brand, and that formula of luxe dresses, separates, and extravagant statement pieces is where we are building our foundation. The only difference would be that this time it will be even more extravagant! We have all over embroideries, luxurioius fabrications and have added our consistant spin on Modern Victoriana. Our themes may change from season to season, but the essence of what Boudoir D’huitres style is, will never change.

JSD: What new trends will we see in fall 2010 season
Mimi: I believe in Fall 2010 we will be seeing lots of Red, menswear inspired tailoring, origami and the continuation of the body con silhouette. I see structure being very important, and a square neckline being the way to show decolletage for the moment. I still believe the pant will remain slim to the body, and that the soft/modified harem will continue. I look forward to interesting new shapes in fashion and a new sense of individuality, and the excitement of seeing new clothes and new brands. The best trend will be the new found desire for something different and fresh.People will want more exclusivity, and I would love to indulge.

*JSD will be at the show to provide you will full coverage so stay tuned!