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H&M Studio Autumn/Winter 2014 Collection [Video]

by xoJohn

Last night, H&M Studio – which is the new name for H&M’s elevated seasonal collections – presented its Fall/Winter 2014 catwalk show during Paris Fashion Week. Held at the Grand Palais for 600 guests, including Jessica Alba, Miranda Kerr and Solange Knowles, models such as Andreea Diaconu, Joan Smalls, Izabel Goulart and Saskia wore the looks of the season: 21st-century styles, mixed with feminine and masculine flair.

The collection will be available in around 250 stores worldwide, as well as online, starting September 4, 2014.

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“Do you think we’re going the right direction?”  My journalist companion Emily Suarez glares at me in disbelief like she did Lindsey Lohan when the woman drunkenly freaked out at our Editor-In-Chief for taking a photo of her.

“Relax!  I see the tower soaring above the trees in front of us.”  My first time covering Paris Fashion week and I conveniently had the chance to visit the Eiffel Tower and see the Argentine Designers show in one shot.  That is, if we make it to the show in time.  We arrive underneath La Tour, locate the check-in area, and are relieved to find that we are not too late.

We shoot to the entrance and are directed around the 150-so people in queue through a sectioned off opening.  Then we are regrouped with the tourists to be funneled into the single elevator.  Some members of an American tour group notice our special access and audibly comment, “Hey, they’re jumping the line.”  Yep!  We have business.

While we make our way to the lift, a guy from the same group actually attempts to let us pass explaining that the rest of the tour was still behind.  However, another sir, a senior citizen with a Texan accent, was appalled.

“No, we’ve waited here an hour and half.  They gotta wait just like everybody else!”

“We have some place to be,” Emily responded.  Again looks she shot Lohan come to mind.

“Well so do we!” The man retorted and started trembling.  He reached into his pocket, shook out some prescription pills, and jammed them down his throat.  Damn.

The next elevator finally arrives and fortunately we make it to the show without getting mauled by our compatriots.

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The show consisted of Argentine brands Claudio Cosano, Cardon, Di Domenico, Gabriel Lage, Iaia Cano, Jorge Ibanez, and Laurencio Adot.  The starkest contrast between the Argentine Designers from the previous Paris Fashion Week exhibitions can be summarized by the unabashed presence of the straight male’s perspective.  This was true in both the designs and presentation.    Not to say an architectural bondage-inspired dresses isn’t hot, but the Argentines give sex in a way the average man understands.  Yes, this includes the t-shirt and khaki clad Americans by the elevator.  The dresses don’t necessarily show excessive skin, but they hug the body and emphasize the hourglass shape.  A gown that features the shoulders, is fitted from the bust to either the butt or knee, and flares below to the ground is a typical silhouette.


Instead of the models looking like pissed-off alien zombies, they have curves, a healthy glow, and some even smile.  They flirt with their eyes and bodies rather than acting like a coat hanger.  One model in a kimono style chiffon yellow tunic seduces the audience with an Arabian catwalk.  The hairstyles are either pulled back in nuptial updos or simply down.  The makeup essentially is mainstream “club girl”: foundation, blushed apples, and smoky eyes.   Again, there’s nothing too weird, just pretty for our dude.

As much as there are undertones of judgment in my voice, the type of sexuality these dresses bring is not only what the average man wants but what the average women wants.  By having models that demonstrate how confident and happy they feel in the gown, they sell the product.  Besides, after show after show of Parisian, avant garde, minimal designs, watching one that is womanly, embellished, and accessible is refreshing.  The show isn’t so serious.  The music makes you want to dance.

Nonetheless, the attention to detail and construction is no joke. Various uses of painstaking beading, embroidered lace, and artfully placed ruffles that accentuated the female figure made each dress special.  These details must have taken weeks and a few seamstresses’ eyesight to execute.  Impressively, an Argentine fashionista actually complained that the dresses showcased didn’t do the country justice explaining that their designs are often even more meticulous with corseted construction and further embellishment.

Finally, whether the woman is coming or going, the way the chiffons, fringe, and ruffles move with the body is mesmerizing [see video].  An example of this is a suggestively nude colored gown of Gabriel Lage that’s covered in delicate lines of sequence.  It has a neckline chiffon ruffle that drapes itself over the left arm and silver satin fringe decorating the bottom that flutters with every twist of the hip.  Another is a black and white dress by Claudio Cosano whose energy has the audience begging the model to walk the runway twice.  The body of the dress is made of black taffeta with a side slit that nearly exposes the hip.  The feature that requires the encore is the hypnotic black and white wide striped train that begins gathered above the rear and flares to the floor where it drags two feet.

Ironically, as disproportionate the anger from the American tourist was, it reveals the tension and misunderstanding between Fashion and everyday people.  Albeit, gowns and formal wear is a limited market, maybe the Parisians and Americans could take note of the Argentine marketing approach, leave some of the elitism, and consider the lay people.

Street energy
Street energy
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I attended Seoul’s 10 Soul, which featured ten of Korea’s best talent and eastern-styled hors d’oeuvres served in all courses from appetizer to dessert paired with refills of bubbly. As a cultural observer on a tight budget I found this highly appealing. Overall, one of the starkest differences I noticed between Paris Fashion Week and New York’s was the abundance of complimentary food and wine.  Anyways, back to the fashion.

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Tranoï Trend

by Olivia Chow

The Tranoï tradeshow is famous for combining creativity and business in Paris’ prestigious locations.  This women’s Spring/Summer 2012 season with 160 contemporary designers at Palais de la Bourse, 250 edgy & avant garde designers at Carrousel du Louvre, and 45 high end & cocktail dress designers at Espace Montaigne is no different.

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Huddled on the narrow Parisian rue, I wait to enter Nicolas Andreas Taralis’ Spring 2012 show behind double gothic wood doors.  A man in black with a headset gets the cue, starts to check invitations, and motions the crowd into the venue, Espace Commines. It’s a sterilely white 400 2 area located below a glass roof with painted black staircases. The room was previously designed as an industrial warehouse but was built at the end of the 19th century on the location of the gardens of the Filles du Calvaire convent. And it shows. The simplicity and cleanliness of the setting combined with the rays of sunlight shining through the glass makes me think God needs a clean canvas to prep his next experiment. I am uneasy and sit down at my assigned white painted pew.

Like in the chambers of a cathedral, Baroque classical music starts to echo and the first model steps onto the floor.  She is fair, draped all in white organza, and hair tied up in braids.  She is an angel or a disguised siren.  The only discontinuity is the rubber-like footwear, which looks like a single-strap sandal with a shin guard.  The materials and minimalism of the boots are futuristic, while the silhouette reminds me of the bygone era of Greek soldiers.  The next look follows suit with a white cotton floor-length dress that’s gathered above the bust and slightly transparent.  Baptism comes to mind.  I revel in the way the see-through garments in conjunction with the religious overtones makes me feel extra dirty.

The menswear and some of the later women’s wardrobes maintain the sheer materials and drapery, but add the protectionism and futuristic aesthetic from the footwear.  There are vests, coats, and shirts with strips that cross the body and attach to the other side with snaps, buttons, or Velcro.  It’s something between a bulletproof vest and a straight jacket.

4th

Suddenly the whiteness is tainted and darkness progressively creeps:   first in the shoes, then in elements of the clothing, until there is an outfit in head-to-toe black.  He looks like an undertaker or a hit man in a to-the-knee lightly distressed open trench and heavy ankle boots that are glossy to make wiping the blood off easy.

The juxtaposition of hard and soft from the white wardrobes are mirrored in its binary counterpart.  The two sides ultimately are no different.  Taralis riddles the collection with tensions between good and evil, purity and sin, past and future evoking the discomfort and pleasure I experienced.

I later find out that his inspiration was George Lucas’ first film THX 1138, which takes place in the 25th century in a dystopia where mind controlling drugs are mandatory and the people worship a Jesus-looking being known as “OMM 0910”.  I am immediately impressed with Taralis’ storytelling abilities.  Both he and THX 1138 observe the way in which organized religion enforces the distinction between good and evil, insists it is on the benevolent side, and claims questioning is immoral.  Of course Taralis’ collection suggests otherwise, and so does Lucas who explains,

“A lot of this movie is based upon belief systems.  If you believe something to be true, then it is.  So if you believe you’re in prison you are…But the reality is just the opposite.”  

I am awed by Taralis’ execution of the art of storytelling in that he was able to summarize and give perspective on the emotions and complex concepts of Lucas’  88 minute film purely through his clothing and exhibition.

balinese dancee

I participated in a Balinese dance workshop once where the teacher explained that their dancers train for up to 2 years before they learn an actual dance.  The reason for this is this that they find accurately telling stories of utmost importance, which requires students to gain an ungodly level of muscle control in the face and body in order to fully expressing the character.  In fact, if you have the opportunity to watch a Balinese dance, you will undoubtedly be able to follow the tale purely through their motions and no narration.  Taralis’ show gives me hope that Fashion will not give up aspirations to tell stories at Balinese dance proportions.

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I truly loved the Marithé + François Girbaud Spring/Summer 2011 ready-to-wear fashion show held at the spectacular Tuileries Garden in Paris. This line was founded in 1964 by the creative and free-thinking husband and wife team of Francois and Marithe Girbaud. They specialize in casual clothing, especially jeans using unique styling and fabrics for comfort all with a modern twist that makes this line a fave with the celebs. Supermodel, Amber Rose, was in attendance with front row seating of course.

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Belgian designer, Tim Van Steenbergen, held his Spring/Summer 2011 fashion show at The Bataclan in Paris. He was inspired by the atmosphere of Robert Mapplethorpe’s flower images and the lady gardener who loves to work in her flower garden on the weekends. His first collection was shown in 2002 Paris. He is known for being a master in draping.

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