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New York Men’s Day Fall/Winter 2018

by John Stolen

New York Fashion Week kicked off with a bang, as it has recent years, with New York Men’s Day (NYMD). The bitter February wind whipped through sequins and shearling (and sequined shearlings) as the fashionistos, editors, and influencers made their way to Creative Drive’s Sand Studios on Water Street. A modified Gandhi quote from Creative Drive’s CEO (“Be the action you want to see in the world”) emblazoned on the wall opposite life-size action figure boxes gave context to the ‘grammable boxes in which guests posed – “You are our action figures,” a sign read at the end of the short, introductory, interactive exhibit.

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#NYFWM: Heliot Emil S/S 2018

by John Stolen

Julius Juul, Designer and Creative Director at Heliot Emil went out on a limb for the Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Instead of following trends, he dove into the trenches to create a line that draws attention to the post-war existential crisis that is experienced by many, but is largely overlooked in our consumerist culture.

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#NYFWM: David Hart S/S 2018

by John Stolen

David Hart takes a vacation from trend – and heads to Cuba! While other designers and labels are still working in the colors of the year into their collection, Hart is traveling the globe and becoming a true trendsetter. Though, arguably the biggest trend these days is going to Cuba during this sweet period in which the embargo has been lifted. How long anything will last these days balances on the edge of a coin, so it was a timely move to draw inspiration from a world long locked away.

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#NYFWM: EPONYMOVS Spring/Summer 2016

by Alvin J. Woods

The MVP award of New York Fashion Week: Men’s #NYFWM goes to designer Hvrminn & Co. for his collection, EPONYMOVS. The NYC-based line for gentlemen started in 2011 as a low-key made-to-measure suiting company and has grown to demand the attention of all onlookers this season with killer suits that are reminiscent of the classic era in fashion.

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David Hart takes us back to our formative years, incorporating primarily primary colors, with a touch of green. Inspired by the Bauhaus movement, Hart‘s SS16 collection calls out the primary building blocks, of fashion and prints. Staying with his strong tailoring techniques he showcases structured linen suits with flat front trousers, pleated shorts, and geometric prints that allude to more tactile textures of the Bauhaus-era manufacturers. A front flap added to select pairs of shorts add the architectural element that imbues the inter-war era movement.

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Moving beyond his debut collection which stayed within a safe range of navy, grey, and black, Carlos Garciavelez’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection plays with the spectrum of light, drawing inspiration from David Flavin’s 1996 fluorescent installation. Vertical gradients of neon blue into neon green printed on tees, horizontal gradients punctuating the hem of sweaters of lightweight bonded fabrics, and neon treads across coats and button-ups all convey the temporal quality of light that Carlos experiments with. “The challenge,” he says, is “to capture a finite quality of an incandescent source and how that relates to the human body”.

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